We suggest a minimum of 30 minutes for 144 s.f., about the size of a 12×12 room.

We recommend one fogger per 140 s.f.

Make sure all water intrusions are repaired.

Make sure all areas maintain a humidity level below 60%.

Make sure all substrates, wood trim, flooring, etc., have a moisture content below 15%.

Confirm your HVAC (when running) is not blowing air above 50% humidity.

Remove all items that would be hard to clean (i.e., natural plant wreaths, pine cone decorations).

Remove all demo materials from space.

Plan on sealing any raw wood items after wipedown.

Where possible, we recommend all construction be completed (i.e., if you are having a bathroom torn out or kitchen cabinets). Gut the room as needed and remember new construction materials, including wood, cabinets, etc., may contain spores from the store, warehouse, contractor, transportation vehicle, etc.,

Plan on wiping down all new materials and furniture brought into the home after remediation.

Our product, when used with a fogger & turntable, is designed to replace traditional air scrubbers. The turntable rotates at 360°  allowing the fog to reach all surfaces in the room.

First, what vehicle are you using to move furniture? If it is an enclosed truck or trailer, first fog the trailer/truck interior.  I’d wait for no less than 20 minutes before loading items.

I would create a contained area, outside truck to move furniture through, like a portable/temporary garage covered in plastic, enclosing both ends with plastic using a slit at each end to enter and exit. This can be set up outside or in a garage.

Start fogger for 20 minutes and then bring one piece of furniture into the containment with fog, keep fogger running at all times while cleaning/wiping down. Use a microfiber cloth to wipe all surfaces of the furniture including back, bottom, legs. Pull out each drawer and wipe, especially bottom, back and sides. Reach into the drawer cavity and wipe out, including all dust. Repeat for each drawer, cavity and cabinet. The fogger is running the entire time to capture and destroy all the spores being released into the air.

Once that piece of furniture is complete, move it out of containment and pack. If you use a fogger at a high speed it may leave moisture on horizontal surfaces and should be wiped with clean microfiber cloth. You do not want to leave visual droplets on wood or leather furniture. The fogger should always be on low setting. Fog should be near invisible. We recommend fogger that will put out mist/fog at 3 microns droplet size otherwise droplets will be too heavy and fall straight down to ground when our goal is to have fog linger in air to attack and clean away airborne spores.

Other solid surface items like silverware, pots and pans can be lightly wiped or dust blown off in containment. Mold does not like these items to grow on, but will land  and consume any dust on these hard surface items.

Leather furniture can be saved  with a very careful process. We recommend HEPA vacuuming all surfaces. We recommend removing bottom thin lining to reach underneath side. Then take in fogged containment and particularly get fog on underneath side. Leave in fog 5-10 minutes and remove out to pack. Be sure NO droplets remain on leather as it will mar leather. Another reason you need 3 micron fog. To be sure take dry, clean microfiber to leather surface once out of containment before packing.

This is all with MoldKlear Interior formula. Regarding clothes, you can launder with regular load and add 1/2 – 1 cup MoldKlear to wash (depending of size of load). Other items that cannot be easily laundered can be taken in containment with fog, flutter clothes.  Goal is to remove all dust mold likes to attach to.  Leather purses & shoes, wipe with microfiber in contained  area then pack.

Do not let furniture remain in an enclosed storage unit/trailer without good climate control.

Also, be sure and wear protective clothing, goggles and  N-95 mask. Fog solution will not harm you but we are disturbing dust, particulate and spores you do not want to breath in or absorb into skin.

Make sure you test new living space so you are not trading problems.

If you suspect or know you have mold, then our procedure for carpet removal is to contain that room with sealed plastic, remove carpet in sections and bag in plastic, seal and bag a second time (called double bagging) and seal before removing from room.  This keeps any mold or mycotoxins from spreading throughout home as you remove. Better yet, if you have a window in that area to remove carpet out that window. The containment will keep dust, mold and mycotoxins contained to that area.  Once carpet, pad, tact strip are removed then we would recommend HEPA vacuum and treating that area with MoldKlear both by spraying the surface and fogging the air to destroy floating mold spores.  We would also recommend wiping the walls, any shelves and window treatments.  Fogging should be no less that 20 minutes or more. Once complete then you can take containment down and install new flooring.  Remember the HEPA vacuum will need to be taken outside and cleaned with MoldKlear inside and out to remove the potential for cross contamination at next use.

Antiques, even new furniture can bring in new mold to your home. You will have to be very diligent going forward in how your home can be exposed. We recommend purchasing a spray bottle of MoldKlear to clean items BEFORE you bring them in your home.

Having your windows open in spring can also let in mold. Place humidity meters in your home to monitor each month. We suggest that if humidity is nearing 55% that you watch more diligently and are conscious to not let it reach 60%.

Regarding your garage, your house is positively pressured so when you open the door from your house to your garage air should flow out from your home not in.  Treating a garage that is not climate controlled or whose door is opened often will be hard to maintain humidity control.

Nothing guarantees mold will not return. You will have to remain diligent and repair any moisture intrusions within 48 hours.

Even new construction materials (i.e., cabinets can contain mold). Have you ever purchased something from a garage sale or thrift shop? Consider cleaning those items by wiping down prior to putting in your car or home. If having work done to you home, have your contractor use containment in that area so if they open up a wall or tear out flooring, the debris and possible spores remain in that area. Make sure debris is placed in plastic bags or wrapped prior to moving through home to dispose. Treat area with fog treatment prior to containment area being disabled. Spend $10 to get humidity meters and place in several areas in your home to monitor humidty and don’t let humidity get over 60%. Change furnace filters often. Consider adding a dehumidifier on your HVAC unit. Repair water leaks within 48 hours.

Probiotics work to clean bio-film of mold, the byproduct of mold.  Does nothing to eliminate mold.

Essential oils have antimicrobial properties in general, but upon testing against mold colonies it revealed leaving behind numerous microbial spores.  In essence not a thorough cleaner for mold spores or their biofilm. Also, if atomized or fogged will leave an oil residue that will require cleaning of all surfaces.

Hydrogen peroxide is an oxidizer and can harm wiring and metals (cabinet handles, etc.). We don’t recommend.  It can disrupt the DNA of mold by breaking apart, but the broken pieces of DNA can regenerate given the appropriate conditions and regrow.

No. Bleach will only bleach/discolor the surface, mold spores and their roots (hyphea) will remain and grow again another day to become visible again. Note: EPA does not recommend bleach for mold removal. Reminder: Bleach prominent ingredients are water combined with the sodium hypo-chloridge so the water can feed the mold.

We recommend using MoldKlear Interior.  After you spray let sit for approximately 5 minutes and scrub with brush. If it is heavy mold growth, rinse after brushing and then spray a final time and let air dry. Shower can be sprayed after each use for maintenance.  Keep in mind if the grout is stained it will not remove the stain, but will remove the mold spores.  We recommend keeping a spray bottle nearby and spraying after each shower.  Just spray and let dry.

No. All repairs and issues with drainage have to be repaired otherwise you are wasting your money.

The most complete application process. The electrostatic sprayer allows for complete coverage with its wrap around spray enabling you to treat small sit-a-round items and hard to reach areas. Reach more surfaces in less time with less waste. These sprayers are often used in schools and hospitals for disenfecting. Using for mold you will still want all dust particulate wiped. For example, see youtube sample hospital room clean where you can see them spray a fluorescent die in an electronic sprayer:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVTKv4A8Djk

We have some individuals that report feeling better immediately after remediation and yet some individuals have complex health issues and mold removal does not always result in immediate health improvement.  Removing mold and mycotoxins from the body is a long process in our experience.  As you work with your physician to detox your body and improve you immune system your health will improve over time. Other times there can be other reasons you are not feeling better. Ask yourself: Did the mold clearance tests pass, including mycotoxin test? Did I follow the protocol? Can I see any dust particulate after the remediation? Is my humidity at 60% or higher in any room or coming from my HVAC? Did I have my HVAC system cleaned? Is there any moisture intrusion(s) still apparent? Have I moved in any new or stored items from outside my home? Hidden mold, sometimes you can find that mold is hidden in walls. In some cases, you will need to bring in experts.

It is true that many times your clearance tests for mold will pass, but if you ran a mycotoxin test it will fail. If this happens, we recommend using ToxinKlear and follow our remediation protocol. Or if you want to have a mycotoxin test for your environment, you can contact RealTime Laboratories, www.realtimelab.com for a kit.

Yes it can, but the key is drying out the carpet quickly.  Use the MoldKlear interior formula, dilute 1/2 water, 1/2 treatment solution.

You can purchase a fogger on our website.  However, if you choose to purchase somewhere else, you want one that does NOT use heat to generate fog and that has an adjustable output so the low level puts out 3-5 micron size of droplet. If you purchase, or borrow a used fogger, be sure it is thoroughly cleaned to ensure the previous used chemicals do not effect the treatment solution. Note: many used foggers are used with dangerous pesticides.

The turntable was designed for even and complete coverage in a room. The fogger should be run according to our remediation protocol.  We recommend running fogger 15 minutes before starting to clean, running during entire cleaning process in a room and up to 20 minutes after cleaning and everyone has left room.  Simply walking around with the fogger will simply chase and push out the spores and particulate in front of you due to the force of the air coming out.  It’s like a dog chasing its tale.  The spores and particulate simply run from you by the force of the air. Setting the fogger on a turntable and allowing it to run for long periods of time on very low settings forces everything to the walls to be treated.  It also ensures that treatment reaches corners and forces in to small areas like receptacles and details on crown molding, built-in book shelves, etc.  This can be used in your office space as well.

If you have visible growth on less than 1/3, it can be fogged. Any visible growth can be sprayed with MoldKlear Interior, lightly scrubbed and allowed to air dry. If growth is over 1/3, or mattress has been completely soaked, we recommend disposal.

We recommend using MoldKlear Crawl & Attic. However, once drywall has been installed, you should not use Crawl & Attic anymore and use one of the other products for interior cleaning.

Refer to car manufacturer’s suggestions.

Spray the dryer drum, let sit for 5 minutes, wipe out.

Our detailed protocol is included with every purchase.  Removing mold from the interior requires a very thorough cleaning process.  All surfaces need wiped including walls, back and bottom of furniture.

MoldKlear Interior: Use for fogging and cleaning contents in interiors.

MoldKlear Crawl & Attic: Use ONLY for crawlspaces and attics.  Can be used on wood studs before drywall has been installed.

ToxinKlear: If you have had your home previously remediated and it was not tested for mycotoxins, use this to ensure mycotoxins are eliminated.

MoldToxinKlear: Use this for all mold and mycotoxin concerns.

Renew-Air: For use in ultrasonic humidifiers.  Product should not be used in a heated humidifier.

CarKlear:  For use in remediation of vehicle interiors.

Duct-CoilKlear: Blended to remove mold & bacteria from air ducts and evaporator & condenser coils, cuts through biofilm.

PassKlear:    Eliminates using air scrubbers.  Primarily used by remediation contractors to ensure the air is properly cleaned and will pass clearance testing.

Fresh n Klear:   Cleans air and surfaces to eliminate odors. Can be used in sprayer, fogger, ultrasonic humidifier or atomizer.

Experienced remediation teams take: 400 s.f./person/day for a structure with heavy contents; 700 s.f./person/day for moderate contents; 500 s.f./person/day for crawlspaces. You can add time based on your experience level of detailed particulate cleaning.

For a home with moderate contents, we recommend 5 gallons per 1,000 sf. This will allow for fogging and cleaning of contents.  For fogging only, we recommend 1 gallon per 1,000 sf.  Product comes full strength for treatment  (it is not a concentrate). Quantity used can vary with many factors including intended use, substrates, contents, & delivery methods.  These recommendations are approximate and can vary.

The ideal storage temperature is 55 to 100 degrees.  It can freeze and will thaw with no harm.  You will notice the surfactants will solidify and separate at 40 degrees and below.  If that occurs, the solution will need to be warmed to typical room temperatures.  Once warmed, shake slightly to remix.  Product should not lose any effectiveness.  Higher temperatures will start killing off the live enzymes making it less effective when reaching over 150 degrees.

You can email info@usenzyme.com.

Yes. We use FedEx.  Larger orders will be shipped via DHL.

Yes.  We recommended a 1/2 – 1 cup (MoldKlear Interior) based on size of load.