U.S. Enzyme is committed to helping individuals and contractors with their mold remediation and removal needs. We post mold facts, mold removal tips and frequently asked questions to this page in order to be a resource and answer questions for successful mold remediation.
Mold Removal Protocol: All orders come with our recommended remediation protocol sent via email. Please make sure to check your email for your completed purchase confirmation which includes the link for download.
Both transit time and shipping cost are determined during online order placement process.
Transit time is based upon what service type you select (i.e., regular ground, overnight, etc.) when placing your order. Please be sure to be observant which service type you select.
Shipping cost is based upon the weight of your shipment, location being shipped to and which service type you select.
The fogger holds just under 1 gallon and will run approximately 1 1/2 – 2 hours when full. Remember to always set fogger to lowest setting.
Paint will only temporarily hide the mold and the mold will “eat” the paint and grow back through. It does nothing to eliminate it and its roots.
You should do testing no sooner than 72 hours after application. It takes 24 – 48 hours for mold to grow, so the 72 hour time frame will allow ample time for mold to show up in testing if it is still a problem.
We suggest a minimum of 30 minutes for 144 s.f., about the size of a 12×12 room.
We recommend one fogger per 140 s.f.
Make sure all water intrusions are repaired.
Make sure all areas maintain a humidity level below 60%.
Make sure all substrates, wood trim, flooring, etc., have a moisture content below 15%.
Confirm your HVAC (when running) is not blowing air above 50% humidity.
Remove all items that would be hard to clean (i.e., natural plant wreaths, pine cone decorations).
Remove all demo materials from space.
Plan on sealing any raw wood items after wipedown.
Where possible, we recommend all construction be completed (i.e., if you are having a bathroom torn out or kitchen cabinets). Gut the room as needed and remember new construction materials, including wood, cabinets, etc., may contain spores from the store, warehouse, contractor, transportation vehicle, etc.,
Plan on wiping down all new materials and furniture brought into the home after cleaning.
Our product, when used with a fogger & turntable, is designed to replace traditional air scrubbers. The turntable rotates at 360° allowing the fog to reach all surfaces in the room to eliminate all mold by-products and organic debris. Air scrubbers are designed to circulate the air through a filter. The problem we often see with air scrubbers:
- not enough are place to reach all air
- not ran long enough time
- they create a vortex in the room which ends up leaving remaining airborne spores thrown out of the vortx
- furniture will block the flow of air and can disrupt the flow, leaving left behind spores and debris
I am leaving a home that was tested and has toxic mold in several walls, no visible mold or damp inside the house. I would like to be able to take clothes, solid wood furniture and kitchen hard, non porous items. We also have leather furniture. Can it be cleaned, in your opinion? Can you please recommend a product(s) that I could use to remove any unseen spores before we move.
First, what vehicle are you using to move furniture? If it is an enclosed truck or trailer, first fog the trailer/truck interior the day. I’d wait for no less than 20 minutes before loading items.
I would create a contained area, outside truck to move furniture through, like a portable/temporary garage covered in plastic, enclosing both ends with plastic using a slit at each end to enter and exit. This can be set up outside or in a garage.
Start fogger for 20 minutes and then bring one piece of furniture into the containment with fog, keep fogger running at all times while cleaning/wiping down. Use a microfiber cloth to wipe all surfaces of the furniture including back, bottom, legs. Pull out each drawer and wipe especially bottom, back and sides. Reach into the drawer cavity and wipe out, including all dust. Repeat for each drawer, cavity and cabinet. The fogger is running the entire time to capture and destroy all the spores/debris/particulate being released into the air.
Once that piece of furniture is complete, move it out of containment and pack. If you use a fogger at a high speed it may leave moisture on horizontal surfaces and should be wiped with clean microfiber cloth. You do not want to leave visual droplets on wood or leather furniture. The fogger should always be on low setting. Fog should be near invisible. We recommend fogger that will put out mist/fog at 3-5 microns droplet size otherwise droplets will be too heavy and fall straight down to ground when our goal is to have fog linger in air to attack and clean away airborne spores.
Other solid surface items like silverware, pots and pans can be lightly wiped or blow off dust in containment. Mold does not like these item to grow on, but will land and consume any dust on these hard surface items.
Leather furniture can be saved with a very careful process. We recommend HEPA vacuuming all surfaces. We recommend removing bottom thin lining to reach underneath side. Then take in fogged containment and particularly get fog on underneath side. Leave in fog 5-10 minute and remove out to pack. Be sure NO droplets remain on leather as it will mar leather. Another reason you need 3-5 micron fog. To be sure take dry, clean microfiber to leather surface once out of containment before packing.
Regarding clothes you can launder with regular load and add one cup MoldStainKlear to wash. Other items that cannot be easily laundered then can take in containment with fog, flutter clothes, goal to remove all dust mold likes to attach to. Leather purses, shoes, wipe with microfiber in contained area then pack.
Do not let furniture remain in an enclosed storage unit/trailer without good climate control.
Also, be sure and wear protective clothing, goggles and N-95 mask. Fog solution will not harm you but we are disturbing dust, particulate and spores you do not want to breath in or absorb into skin.
Make sure you test new living space so you are not trading problems.
What is your recommendation for the procedure for removing carpet and replacing with a hardwood floor?
If you suspect or know you have mold, then our procedure for carpet removal is to contain that room with sealed plastic, remove carpet in sections and bag in plastic, seal and bag a second time (called double bagging) and seal before removing from room. This keeps any mold or mycotoxins from spreading throughout home as you remove. Better yet, if you have a window in that area to remove carpet out that window. The containment will keep dust, mold and mycotoxins contained to that area. Once carpet, pad, tact strip are removed then we would recommend HEPA vacuum and treating that area with MoldKlear both by spraying the surface and fogging the air to destroy floating mold spores. We would also recommend wiping the walls, any shelves and window treatments. Fogging should be no less that 20 minutes or more. Once complete then you can take containment down and install new flooring. Remember the HEPA vacuum will need to be taken outside and cleaned with MoldKlear inside and out to remove the potential for cross contamination at next use.
Antiques, even new furniture can bring in new mold to your home. You will have to be very diligent going forward in how your home can be exposed. We recommend purchasing a spray bottle of MoldKlear to clean items BEFORE you bring them in your home.
Having your windows open in spring can also let in mold. Place humidity meters in your home to monitor each month. We suggest that if humidity is nearing 55% that you watch more diligently and are conscious to not let it reach 60%.
Regarding your garage, your house is positively pressured so when you open the door from your house to your garage air should flow out from your home not in. Treating a garage that is not climate controlled or whose door is opened often will be hard to maintain humidity control.
Nothing guarantees mold will not return. You will have to remain diligent and repair any moisture intrusions within 48 hours.
Even new construction materials (i.e., cabinets can contain mold). Have you ever purchased something from a garage sale or thrift shop? Consider cleaning those items by wiping down prior to putting in your car or home. If having work done to you home, have your contractor use containment in that area so if they open up a wall or tear out flooring, the debris and possible spores remain in that area. Make sure debris is placed in plastic bags or wrapped prior to moving through home to dispose. Treat area with fog treatment prior to containment area being disabled. Spend $10 to get humidity meters and place in several areas in your home to monitor humidty and don’t let humidity get over 60%. Change furnace filters often. Consider adding a dehumidifier on your HVAC unit. Repair water leaks within 48 hours.
Probiotics work to clean bio-film of mold, the byproduct of mold, but it does nothing to eliminate mold.
Essential oils have antimicrovial properties in general, but upon testing against mold colonies it revealed leaving behind numerous microbial spores. In essence, it is not a thorough cleaner for mold spores or their biofilm. Additionally, if atomized or fogged it will leave an oil residue that will require cleaning of all surfaces.
Hydrogen peroxide is an oxidizer and can harm wiring and metals (cabinet handles, etc.). We don’t recommend using it to get rid of mold. It can disrupt the DNA of mold by breaking apart, but the broken pieces of DNA can regenerate given the appropriate conditions and regrow.
No. Bleach will only remove the surface mold by discoloring so its looks to be clean. It does not eliminate the root of the mold, which will eventually grow back.
We recommend using MoldStainKlear Interior. After you spray let sit for approximately 5 minutes and scrub with brush. If it is heavy mold growth, rinse after brushing and then spray a final time and let air dry. Shower can be sprayed after each use for maintenance. Keep in mind if the grout is damaged by the mold (actually has started consuming the surface) then the stain might not remove and may be necessary to replace the grout or cault for more permanent results. We recommend keeping a spray bottle nearby and spraying after each shower. Just spray and let dry.
No. All repairs and issues with drainage have to be repaired otherwise you are wasting your money.
The sprayer is designed to cover the entire surface of an item getting into all hard to reach places, physically wrapping the spray around objects. Therefore electrostatic sprayer is designed to apply product to objects.
We have some individuals that report feeling better immediately after remediation and yet some individuals have complex health issues and mold removal does not always result in immediate health improvement. Removing mold and mycotoxins from the body is a long process in our experience. As you work with your physician to detox your body and improve you immune system your health will improve over time.
My home was previously remediated, but didn’t get tested for mycotoxins. What can I do to make sure the mycotoxins are gone?
If you suspect you have the by-product of mold after a remediation we would suggest you use MoldStain T-Klear in a fogger to remove mold by-products and other organic debris left from a remediation.
Yes it can, but the key is drying out the carpet quickly. Use the MoldStainKlear interior formula, dilute 1/2 water, 1/2 treatment solution.
You can purchase a fogger on our website. However, if you choose to purchase somewhere else, you want one that does NOT use heat to generate fog and that has an adjustable output so the low level puts out 3-5 micron size of droplet. If you purchase, or borrow a used fogger, be sure it is thoroughly cleaned to ensure the previous used chemicals do not effect the treatment solution.
The turntable was designed for even and complete coverage in a room. The fogger should be run according to our remediation protocol. We recommend running fogger 15 minutes before starting to clean, running during entire cleaning process in a room and up to 20 minutes after cleaning and everyone has left room. Simply walking around with the fogger will simply chase and push out the spores and particulate in front of you due to the force of the air coming out. It’s like a dog chasing its tale. The spores and particulate simply run from you by the force of the air. Setting the fogger on a turntable and allowing it to run for long periods of time on very low settings forces everything to the walls to be treated. It also ensures that treatment reaches corners and forces in to small areas like receptacles and details on crown molding, built-in book shelves, etc. This can be used in your office space as well.
Mattresses can be fogged with our product. Any visible growth can be sprayed with MoldStainKlear Interior, lightly scrubbed and allowed to air dry.
My home is currently under construction and drywall has not been installed yet. What should I use to clean the studs?
We recommend using MoldStainKlear Crawl & Attic. However, once drywall has been installed, you should use the Interior formula for interior cleaning.
Spray the dryer drum, let sit for 5 minutes, wipe out. Heavily spray the seals and let sit 5 min then wipe, then spray final time and let air dry.
Our detailed protocol is included with every purchase. Removing mold from the interior requires a very thorough cleaning process. All surfaces need wiped including walls, back and bottom of furniture.
MoldStainKlear Interior: Use for fogging and cleaning contents in interiors.
MoldStainKlear Crawl & Attic: Use ONLY for crawlspaces and attics. Can be used on wood studs before drywall has been installed.
MoldStain T-Klear: Use this for all mold and mycotoxin concerns.
Renew-Air: For use in ultrasonic humidifiers. Product should not be used in a heated humidifier.
CarKlear: For use in remediation of vehicle interiors.
Duct-CoilKlear: Blended to remove mold & bacteria from air ducts and evaporator & condenser coils, cuts through biofilm.
PassKlear: Eliminates using air scrubbers. Primarily used by remediation contractors to ensure the air is properly cleaned and will pass clearance testing.
Fresh n Klear: Cleans air and surfaces to eliminate odors. Can be used in sprayer, fogger, ultrasonic humidifier or atomizer.
Experienced remediation teams take: 400 s.f./person/day for a structure with heavy contents; 700 s.f./person/day for moderate contents; 500 s.f./person/day for crawlspaces. You can add time based on your experience level of detailed particulate cleaning.
For a home with moderate contents, we recommend 5 gallons per 1,000 sf. This will allow for fogging and cleaning of contents. For fogging only, we recommend 1 gallon per 1,000 sf. Product comes full strength for treatment (it is not a concentrate). Quantity used can vary with many factors including intended use, substrates, contents, & delivery methods. These recommendations are approximate and can vary.
The ideal storage temperature is 55 to 100 degrees. It can freeze and will thaw with no harm. You will notice the surfactants will solidify and separate at 40 degrees and below. If that occurs, the solution will need to be warmed to typical room temperatures. Once warmed, shake slightly to remix. Product should not lose any effectiveness. Higher temperatures will start killing off the live enzymes making it less effective when reaching over 150 degrees.
Yes. Individuals can go to www.myus.com and open an account for us to ship to, and that company takes care of getting it overseas.